This is a question that often comes up, so I decided that it was time someone did a simple pictoral guideline. I've had to cut a lot of these recently, and I figured others might need something like this.
In general, I made most of my cuts into the cage using a
Reinforced Cutting Wheel with my dremel. For any round cuts, I use a
Drum Sander. I debur with sand paper.
* Front of the cage:The first cut you need to do is at the front of the cage to allow the Grenade Launcher Front Block to slot into it. (In all the pics in this pictoral guideline, the first pic is the unaltered cage, the second pic is the rough guidline as to where to cut, the third pic is the material that would be removed, and the final pic is the altered cage.)
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SPAS12_FrontCut.jpg [ 72.79 KiB | Viewed 26549 times ]
Here's a before and after:
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SPAS12_FrontCut-BA.jpg [ 66.18 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
* Left side of the cage:On the left side of the cage you need to remove three small sections to allow the pump grip's racking mechanism access to the inside of the cage.
Attachment:
SPAS12_LeftCut.jpg [ 95.81 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
* Bottom side of the cage:To make the cuts for the loading port, you need to extend the length of the hole that's already there like so:
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SPAS12_BottomCut.jpg [ 78.77 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
* Right side of the cage:IMHO, the hardest cuts to make are those of the ejection port. I start by cutting the small section at the top, followed by the long horizontal cut at the bottom. Two vertical cuts completes the rectangular cut out. All that's left is the curved cuts:
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SPAS12_RightCut.jpg [ 111.88 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
Here's a close up of what it should look like:
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SPAS12_RightCut-CU.jpg [ 50.66 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
Edit:
Here's a little extra info. Personally, with the way my Pulse Rifles are constructed I don't bother with the following two cuts because I'm using a resin M870 receiver, and I attach the triggers seperately, so I can simply slot the receiver through the front of the SPAS12 cage (and not worry about the trigger getting in the way). However, if someone plans to use either an airsoft or real steel M870 receiver, they'll have to load the M870 through the
back of the cage and therefore needs to do the following:
* Back end, Major cut:To be able to load the M870 receiver through the back of the cage, you'll have to remove the following material:
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Spas12_BackCut01.jpg [ 61.62 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
Actually, I've probably highlighted more than actually needs to be removed from there, but you get the idea. The cut can probably be more squared off, like on the altered cage on the right. I found this cut to be about the same difficulty as that of the front section cut... which was very easy.
* Back end, Minor cut:The last cut is a tiny one... but a necessary one. This one is needed to make way for the trigger assembly:
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Spas12_BackCut02.jpg [ 85.75 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
Here it is from a slightly better angle:
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Spas12_BackCut02B.jpg [ 26.21 KiB | Viewed 26548 times ]
As I said before, these two cuts I typically don't bother with, but they are cut in all the SD Studios SPAS12 cages so it doesn't hurt to be aware of them.

Hope that helps answer one of the most commonly asked questions regarding the SPAS12 cage.
-Alex Ko
"The M41-A. When you absolutely, positively have to kill every mofo in the room. Accept no substitutes."