So I am in the process of building an Airsoft PR. As I stated in the other thread.

Big thing is as I have done research alot of people seem to be unhappy with the over-all quality of the G&P Kit. What I am trying to figure out is what the best way to approach this is... I definitely don't want a crappy Airsoft PR prone to breakage.

What I am asking is what is the best way to go about doing this? I am debating between going all out at getting an Airsoft adapter kit and building one that way... Problem there is I don't know what all I would even need to complete that.

Of course there also is buying the G&P Kit and replacing the crappy parts, question there is how would I go about replacing things and what would need to be replaced. If I replace the Shrouds, Under-carriage, barrel, and stock... What is the point of buying the kit? Of course there is also the case of not replacing all of that.

I am sure this has been tried before. What all I am getting into price/parts wise? What are really the best places to go nowadays (I tried M41a.com, but half the links there are dead)? I really don't care a whole lot about any of the shotgun stuff 'working' in any appreciable way, really all I want is the grip to move back and forth. I would like a working counter, but I really just want the gun to be solidly built.

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Capt. Joseph "Gauss" Porembski
CMSO Regiment, 2nd Battalion
Task Force 87, "The Sentinels"

Not sure there's much on the G&P kit that'd 'break' and ruin the airsoft aspect of the PR, apart from a slightly mis-aligned bb counter LED gate.

Are you looking at only airsofting with the Thompson, or are you after having the GL airsoft too, as that'd mean no G&P kit needed, just nearly SA parts all round.

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Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

The GL Airsofting is not of any interest to me... I just want something that is going to be of solid quality in terms of the resulting Airsoft Weapon.

I am trying to figure out what the easiest and cheapest way for me to approach this is, while still preserving the quality I want. Maybe just buying the G&P Kit and getting better shrouds? Or maybe the shrouds are good and just getting a new under-carriage? Going the full-9 for everything? I don't know.

I've just heard so many people say the G&P Kit has alot of quality issues, I am trying to figure out what I should replace or if I should just build my own PR from other sources.

Or maybe I am wrong, maybe the complaints are just alot of people gushing over screen-accuracy. Something that is not overly important... Seeing as you are talking to a guy who doesn't care about OD Green vs. Brown Bess and is going to paint his costume PR flat-black because I want it to jive better as a 'Special Operations' costume than to make sure my PR looks like it did in the movie.

Its a different question all together than my last thread (which is why I made a new one) and this board has so much more collective knowledge than I do, I just need some opinions.

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Capt. Joseph "Gauss" Porembski
CMSO Regiment, 2nd Battalion
Task Force 87, "The Sentinels"

Good news is that there is another option for you.
Bad news is it's gonna cost... But then, you really do get what you pay for!!

You want what I call a Hero: Prop Version - I'm doing the same thing, myself (although someone else is building it for me, coz I'm crap).
Basically every thing moves, lights up or does something - Magazine, stock, safety, fire select, counter, cocking handle, bolt, sling... even the grenade launcher pumps, chambers and ejects M40 grenades, which are DATA's prop version with removable caps and sprung plungers.


I expect this will have costed about £1,000 or so by the time it's finished.

- Airsoft Thompson, gearbox and motor removed (donate it to an Airsofter here), front carved out and a false bolt inserted.
- Airsoft Remington 870 (mine's a Maruzen), cut in the normal way.
- Real SPAS handguard and slide-action-sleeve, cut to fit and with the Remington stuffed up inside it.
- Tommin adaptor, to attach the SPAS cage to the Thompson.
- Real metal vent, front block and stock.
- Custom stock locking mechanism.
- Bit of metal tubing for the barrel.
- Matsuo resin shrouds and magazine end plate.
- Real Thomson 20rnd magazines (cheaper), with the Thompson modded to fit them.
- LED Counter.
- Matt Noble sling.

I'm keeping the original grip, just because I like it.
I'm undecided whether to have a static or FX counter...

There are a few other small components here and there - Just about everything there is for sale by members here!!
If not, we know where to get it.

1000 pounds is way outta my price range... But I don't necessarily care about the GL firing anything.

Of course I am curious what that would cost in USD (I doubt the conversion is 1:1, some things will be cheaper over here vs. over there and vice-versa)... Does what you are talking about fire though? You said you removed the Gearbox/Motor.

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Capt. Joseph "Gauss" Porembski
CMSO Regiment, 2nd Battalion
Task Force 87, "The Sentinels"

I'll post a thread soon about my G+P upgrades.

4 Main upgrades I recommend:

-getting a mag insert/mag bottom(s) from me

-replacing the stock with an SD studios

-Adding some plastic to the inside of the handle to remove the creeky sounds

-Removing the shotgun shell, and leave empty or put in an M40 grenade


I have the most heavily modified G+P rifle out there. I almost doesn't look like the kit anymore.

Exchange rate is about $1.45 to the Pound at the minute.
However, this build is talking place over a long time, with the costs spread out. I have a girlfriend and her aggressive shopping habits to support too!!

My version will fire nothing. It's pure prop, intended for display and shows only... I just like moving parts
You can do a similar thing with most of those components and have both the Thompson and GL firing (DATA also makes Maruzen M40s that fire BBs).

A lot of it depends on what functionality you want... even then, there are several options.

Just an FYI,

Hero Thompson firing PRs, use extended thompson barrels, so correct barrel diameter is something like 18mm.

The HCG rifle has a 16mm barrel, and possibly the non firing rifles had a 16mm barrel.


Tommin and SD studio barrels are too thin.

Probably better just to extend your Airsoft barrel.

That's about what you should be looking for, as the G&P stock end piece on mine is resin and can break if hit/leaned on hard enough, so that's one part you will want to replace.

_________________
Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

Ok, well then in that case I'll trust you and Noble PVB and just go for the Airsoft G&P.

_________________
Capt. Joseph "Gauss" Porembski
CMSO Regiment, 2nd Battalion
Task Force 87, "The Sentinels"

Airsoft PR's can add up fast. I have a Marui Thompson in mine and an airsoft shotgun (that part alone cost over $500) so unless you cut corners and keep a handle on the spending it will get real expensive real quick.

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"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

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