I just wanted to know if anyone else has had issues with the functional tele-stock on the G&P Pulse Rifle conversion kit? When I was doing the conversion I couldnt quite get the "push button" for the tele-scoping stock to actually work. For the time being I have removed the 'button' and the spring parts and have resorted to using tape to secure the stock inplace until I can figure out how to correct the problem.
I wanted to know if anyone else has had similar problems and can suggest anything to help me on this.
Thanks for any and all assistance

I'll likely be having the same issue when I get around to buying mine. I know some do replace some parts with custom made versions.

I'd simply suggest stripping the thing down and test-working it with just the parts that the stock assembly needs to work. Use a torch and have a peek inside at the operation, see if that yields any clues as to where it is/should be catching.

Usually the lock function of the stock is the main problem with

the kit.

What some people do, is get an SD studio stock, and do some

dremeling. Check: www.rookscastle.com for the Dean O. method.

I'm just building my first right now, and boy ... am I having to use my brains on this one. Firstly, G&P's CD instructions is worthless, with photos only and no documentation.

As far as I can figure is that the machining if off by may be between 1/100 ~ 15/100 of inch. approx. So their sample used for their photos shows great fit. But in reality, the latch mechanism's plunger (or whatever you call it) doesn't extend deep enough to slide into the index holes.

What I did to get it to work better (still not perfect), is to shim the seating of the receiver with some double sided tape (didn't remove the top layer), so the receiver rides upwards by that 1/100~15/100". Then I tried to increase the spring pressure. The proper way would be to find a stiifer spring, but you would have to match the size. So, I just rigged a piece of plastic off of a pen plus a metal washer. Then for the release button, I found a piece of wood to act as a dowell and stuck it into the plastic finger with a hole in it then sanded it down to the right length.

Seems to work better .... I having to learn as I go here. There were a lot of information and tips G&P should have told us, e.g. pre-drilling the holes in the shrouds meant for those silver metal pins to connect the two halves to make them go in easier and come apart easier. Otherwise it's harder than hell to take the shrouds apart for repair or fiddeling.

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My guide might be of some help, more than the supplied CD anyway.

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Steve
Corporal in 69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes.

"I'd like to die at the age of 80 in my own bed, with a belly full of wine and a girl's mouth around my c**k."

Actually, that was the Gary Weaver method.

And incidentally, I now HIGHLY recommend the method Matsuo used for his rifles. Simple drop in with off the shelf parts. No need to custom mill the locking bolt or anything.

If you use Matt's method, you do need to make certain that your top channel on your stock is perfectly aligned to your guide bolts and retention holes, or you'll have trouble. Mine is slightly offside by maybe 1/16-1/32 of an inch (my long sliding groove was machined improperly) so it has a tendency to bind up at times.

Russ

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"A writer needs a pen, a painter a brush, and a filmmaker an army." - Orson Wells.

http://www.rookscastle.com
http://www.alchemyarms.com

My build is about 90% done now, though I'm still fiddeling around here & there. But I can tell you that my modification has made the plunger go into the index holes. Something which didn't even come close to grabbing before when I installed it straight up ALA G&P's CD. It isn't a perfect solution, because with a hard push you can still skip past the holes, even though it grabbed. But when you push & extend slowly, the latch mechanism now works as it was meant to.

To do it right, you would either have to shim the butt stock for the plane it travels on to ride higher, or you would have to come up with a longer stud on plunger (you would have machine the end part of that I would think). The latter solution would be the optimal, but you need to get into machining for that.

I'm kind of satisfied that I got it at least to grab the holes.

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these are some good ideas of things to try. However I am still trying to settle in from my move into my new house, even 3 months after the actual move. And of course the last thing to get done is the garage and my workshop. So I have to wait until I get my workshop back up and running, and all my part boxes unpacked, since I pulled just about all the parts for the tele-stock button release out of my gun and have it in my spare parts storage boxes.
So for now I will just continue using OD Duct Tape to secure the stock open or closed. doesnt look too pretty, but it does the job. Besides, I re-wired my Pulse Rifle so the wiring and battery plug come out the rear, which allows me to put a stock mounted magazine pouch, such as I use on my M16 on other guns, and then I just use the stock-mag pouch to carry a much larger battery. Since I use my Pulse Rifle for active Airsoft playing, having the larger battery gives me more power and FPS. I dont need it Convention Ready or anything. So if its a bit ugly here and there with some mods and jery-riggs, no worries.

You know how they say .. the proof is in the pudding. Well, in this case -- it's in whether your G&P pulse rifle can support its weight by its butt stock, while the latch mechanism is engaged in the the index holes ...



I think this proves it's worthwhile to modify.

BTW -- it's possible to lock the latch in the third least extended hole, only if you file off that knob that sticks out of the end of the receiver. I didn't see the need to do that, though you could.

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