Thought I would have a go at building a pulse rifle that had seen a bit of action from stuff I had lying around.
The base for the build I had to purchase specifically, namely the Airsoft Thompson and SpaS 12, although these are reletively expensive it is hoped that the rest of the build will bring the overall cost down.
This build is a kitchen table top build using the following tools:
Tenon saw
Hack saw
Junior hack saw
Mitre block
Stanley knife
Exacto knife/scalpel
Electric hand drill
Screw drivers (various)
Scroll saw
Elastic bands
Plastic clamps
Milliput body filler
Hot glue gun
Gorilla glue
PVA glue
Super glue
The finished build will not be an EXACT screen copy, and some parts will be inacurate because of the stuff I have to work with.
Mistakes will be NOTED and where possible alternatives offered.
Also suggestions from other members will be incorporated and if not fully adopted, reasons will be given.

The next two images show my build so far and the following images is the journey of how I got there.

Any suggestions or queries are welcomed.

More images to follow.....

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

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Reformed Pacifist

Shiny!
Looking forward to seeing this move forward

Cheers
Doug

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A11/TQ1.0.4214
Sgt Doug Phillips
69th Regt. 1st Batt. Homer’s Heroes

"If it doesn't get you dirty, it's not worth doing."

Interesting...

First of all: Awesome.

Second: is all that stuff 1:1 scale? Some of it looks very familiar (different colors though) as the airsoft bits I used to make my son's 2/3 scale pulse.

Regardless, back to point one, this is cool and I love these builds.

Did you do a build thread of your sons pulse rifle?

I sure did. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15316

But I gotta say this build from the OP is already off to a much better start than mine. It was a bit slap dash (figuring the 4 year old wouldn't mind the weak points and the grownups weren't going to scrutinize it! )

Yes it is 1:1 scale, I have a bit of sanding to do on the orange Thompson body which I had overlooked in my previous post, however I will do a complete breakdown on all the individual parts c/w images if it will help others with their own builds.

The Thompson and Franchi SpaS are, as rightly identified as (sprung) airsoft weapons, the sliding breach block is wood with a layer of steel from an old PC case and part of a UK coaxial connector, barrels are PVC plumbing pipe. The PR's shroud wil be made from 5mm and 3mm thickness ABS plastic sheet.

I hasten to add that this build is a kitchen table top build and most ofthe shaping work has been done using body filler, a dremmel, hack saw, and various grades of sand paper and a 12" mini scroll saw. It is by no stretch of the imagination going to be an exact perfect replica.

Watch this space...........more to follow.

Transmission terminated.

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

Looking good so far! Where did you get the spas 12 and thompson?

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Happy Happy, Joy Joy

Both the Thompson and the SpaS were bought new from https://bbguns4less.co.uk/ although I do believe that there is a 'Halloween 1930's gangster costume' that has a Thompson that will suffice but I had no luck in sourcing the stick magazined version on its own, as most of them come with a drum that is moulded in and I am too lazy to prat about with that modification.
The Thompson was just under £30.00 GBP and the SpaS was more expensive (a better quality weapon) but I could not find anything cheaper.
The ABS plastic sheeting I bought off Ebay and it is worth taking the time to find the cheapest prices.

https://bbguns4less.co.uk/ is also where I bought my Snow Wolf M41A PR from, and they dispatch very very quickly.

Further transmissions to follow.

Transmission terminated.

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

As promised, step by step build of Thompson. Image Heavy.
1) The Box

2) Remove all external parts and barrel removal

3) I used a dermmel fitted with a small sanding drum to create the ejection port (approx 45 degree angle to main body) and using small piece of 21.5 mm PVC plumbing pipe on inside of Right side of body used filler to shape ejection port so that there is no gap between body and barrel. Then re-shaped using dremmel.

4) After marking the location of the Sliding Breach Aperture I again used dremmel to sand the opening (a steady hand is needed as dremmel tends to wander (see front of slot as mine drifted up slightly)), finish using sand paper or wet and dry.

5) I used 21.5mm uPVC plumbing pipe for main barrel, this needs to be slotted to accommodate forward joining screw and long enough to reach first bulk head (again using the trusty dremmel). Some of the internal supports need to be removed so barrel will slide freely up to bulk head (only remove what needs removing). Pack both halves with filler, and lube the top of the filler then clamp both sides together, lube the slotted end of barrel and insert. Leave to cure. Remove barrel and separate halves. Thus a smooth home is formed for the barrel.

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

6) Inside the Left side I glued a 5mm thick piece of smooth plastic, this not only forms a base for filling the original bolt slide slot but will be the back stop for the new breach block.

7) Another piece of the 5mm plastic acts as a bottom guide to the new breach block and the black object encased in filler on the left of the image is a rubber grommet to act as damper for the breach block to prevent damage to the internal structures.

The new breach block components

9) the wood is shaped so that it does not interfere with internal structures although some do require removing. The metal is cut from an old P.C. hard drive shell and the bolt is part of a UK co-axial connector.

10) Add the spring to the bottom of the breech block and the screw on the leading edge lines up to meet the grommet on the inside Right half.

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

11) Fitting the breech block. Fit end of the spring over the internal screw post and place sliding block in position.

12) Re-fit original magazine lock and trigger mechanisms

13) Re-join the two halves

14) Check that the bolt is free to move back and the spring does not snag on return stroke

15) Insert barrel

16) Assembled

Please NOTE: Do not fasten together at this point as further work is still required to fit the stock.

Hope this is of some use to someone..........

SpaS and shroud builds to follow

Transmission terminated

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

Looks like your doing a fine job!

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MSgt Matt Bradley 'Crashdown' (Formerly Mattb)
A12/TQ2.0.82145E1
CO UKCM 13th Regt. 1st Batt. 'Freebooters'
"There are very few problems that cannot be solved through a suitable application of high explosives."

Before you go much further with the build, have you seen this kit? (also posted about this in the Readyline forum, you need to have a FB account to view this).

https://www.facebook.com/trooperamp/pos ... nref=story

Its still being developed, so they have yet to work out a price, but just something to consider.

Cheers SimonT, that would round off the build perfectly.

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My mommy always said there were no monsters, no real ones... but there are.

Wow, Great Build Jackson..

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"Drake, we are leaving"

Just so you know, those airsoft guns are definitely under sized (not too far off though) but luckily they are relatively well scaled to each other so won't look stupid.

Great build so far mate

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AKA: Simon

looking good great work